Friday, March 5, 2010

RECIFE ( Trip part 3 )

The Taxi arrived back at Recife. Recife is the Capital of this region of Brazil which is Pernambuco. Recife is a group of islands that became Recife when they connected the islands with bridges. The three islands are Santo Antonio, Boa Vista and Recife antigo. We were staying by the main beaches of Boa Viagem. Toni's friend Romulado owns an apartment that his family useses as a vacation place. His relative, Mirian was going to meet us and show us around. The Taxi left us up at a gas station and she quickly came and picked us up. She took us to the apartment and we took showers and changed clothes. She had a car so she drove us up the beach and we stopped for agua de coco ( Coconut milk served in the coconut with a straw ...very popular here ). The beach is lined with new modern apartment building. The beach is set back and is lined with palm trees and a path for running or bicycling. We then went to her apartment for coffee and snacks. We met her two daughters, Sabrina and Kelly. Sabrina is in her early twenties and is studying medicine. Kelly is in her late teens and enjoys reading and her computer. We ( with Kelly included now ) got back in the car and went to a local park that was packed with people enjoying the weekend. We then went along the coast and went to the neighboring town of Olinda. Olinda is similar to historic Salvador. It had old churches and cobblestone streets. Brightly colored colonial homes line the streets. We stopped at a museum with Carnival figures. We went to a few stores and then stopped for another snack in a plaza. I had Churrasco ( chicken on a stick ) and a Tapioca with quejo ( which is a sanwhich with cheese) We then went to Historic Recife to Marco cero. This is a plaza that is the official starting point of the city.

The next day we slept in and then took a walk on the beach. Miriam picked us up in the afternoon and took us to Parque das Esculturas. This is part of the Francisco Brennand institute. This is a large park with two museums and a library. The first museum is full of brazilian art and art from Holland . The second is a castle, Sao Joao, filled with midevil arms. The gardens are filled with Brazilian flora e fauna as well as sculptures.

After the museum we drove around and saw more of the city. We then had dinner at a restaurant with a buffet of typical Brazilian northeastern food.

The next day me and Toni took a taxi to Sao Joa Artisan market where we loaded up on handcrafted items. We got a wooden totem for our living room. A few gifts for Toni's friends in Rio. A painting for our bedroom. That day we went to the beach. The water here is very warm compared to Rio. The bad part is there are also sharks so you can only go into the water to about waist level. The water also had a lot of seaweed.

That night we had all you can eat Sushi in the Galleria by our apartment. My wound was better but I usually needed it cleaned out and a new bandage put on it every four hours. That night we went to the airport but unfortunately did not leave. Toni had misread the time of the departure as being tonight at midnight but our plane actually left at midnight last night. After arguing with the people at Gol! for two hours we called Mirian to come and get us. Gol! had wanted us to not only pay $90 reais for each ticket as a penalty but another penalty for $1000 reais which does not make sense since the tickets cost $400 reais total. We got half of the money refunded as a credit and left.

The next day We woke up late and found a cyber cafe. All the flights in the Brazilian webcites were around $1000 reais for the two of us. I finally found a great flight on Tam from Orbitz for $275 us dollars ( about $500 reais. ) The flight was for the next morning. We went to a restaurant Pitu for lunch. We had steak with rice and beans. That night we walked to the beach and ate at a restaurant that faced the beach. We had chicken in a yellow sauce with fries and rice with Broccoli. Toni had really take to Recife and thinks that maybe we should live there. I have to think about this a lot more.

The next morning we cleaned my wound, Packet everything up again, and waited for Mirian to come pick us up. We got to the airport alright and had no further drama with the plane. In 2 1/2 hours we were back in Rio. Our vacations to the northeast were over. It was great to be home again but I would miss the Northeast.

Perdas de Fogo ( Trip part 2 )
























































We landed in Recife on Monday ( Segunda-faira ) the 22nd. Toni's cousin Bete came with her boyfriend to pick us up. The journey was an hour and a half to the town Toni where Toni was born and raised. It is called Perdas de Fogo ( Stones on Fire ). His parents still live there. along with his one brother and four sisters. The parents share a house with his brother Zito and his wife and four kids ( one girl and three boys ) Toni's sister Teka also lives with her parents. We were staying with his sister Nia ( Maria Jose ) and her husband and son. Toni other two sisters that live in the town are Loura and Secena. Loura ives with her husband and daughter and her daughters husband and her one grand daughter. Sucena lives with her two youngest daughters. She has had eleven children. She now only takes care of the two youngest, Carol and Luecia. Secena had been married but now is divorced.

When we arrived we had lunch at Nia and then walked a street over to visit with his parents. We quickly started drinking. The town was small with street after street of small colorfull houses that are build next to each other. There are no lawns but large sidewalks that people sit out on. Toni's father constantly sits outside the house in his rocking chair.
The next day we walked across town to the Supermarket. It was not that far but Toni was constantly running into people he knew. Bete also had to go pick up her daughter from school. My wound on my back was getting increasingly worse and Toni was getting worried.

We saw the main plaza of town with a large church. At the supermarket we bought things for a Churrasco for tonight. When we were finished we took everything to his parents house. We went to our room at Nias. I took a shower ( there is no hot water which isn't bad since it is always hot here but the water is freezing cold!) Toni fixed my wound. It was slowly draining. That night we had churrasco. Drank beers and Caipirinhas. All of Tonis family was there.

The next day Nias' husband loaded everybody up in his truck and we drove 45 minutes out of town to where Toni's cousin owns a sugar plantation and also bottles mineral water. A short distance from the main house is a large swimming pool filled with mineral water. We unloaded the food and then everybody spent the day in the pool. Even though my wound was bad we figured the water was good for it. The pool was filled with kids screaming and playing. In the evening we picked mangos from a large mango tree outside the house. We finally all loaded back into the truck and returned to town. That night we stayed at his sister Loura's house.

In the morning I had a fever so they called the hospital. An ambulance came and picked me up. We got the the hospital and the halls were full. Toni says there was a man there with a knife in his side who started screaming about the rich people going first when I got to pass him in line. They took me into a room and took my temperature. I did have a fever so I was allowed to see the Doctor right away. We ( loura, Toni ,me and Bete ) went in. I showed him the wound. He wrote some things down. Next we went to a nurses station where they looked at the form and gave me three shots. One in the arm and two in the buttocks. For those who know of my history of vacations, know that things happening to me on vacation isn't anything new. This was probably one of the worse....this and there was the time I had sudden hearing loss in Germany. Well at least health care is free in Brazil. If you are a foreinger you will probably have to wait awhile but since I knew people this was not an issue.
They took me back to Nias to rest. We would have to stay a day extra here because on Saturday I needed two more shots. The rest of my time here I couldn't drink. The whole family was worried about me and constantly asking me how I was and making sure I was in the shade. Saturday came and I had my shots. We then found a taxi to take us to Recife. The final part of our feriados ( vacation ). Toni's family was great but I was ready for some quality time with just the two of us. Plus it is not easy being sick with a whole family watching.

SALVADOR photos part 2





































SALVADOR photos































































































































































































Here are our photos!

SALVADOR ( Trip part 1 )

On the afternoon of February 18th me and Toni left on our trip. We used a small regional airline called Gol! The flight went smoothly and in a little less then an hour we were at the Salvador airport. Toni had arranged for a lady to pick us up. The airport is really far from the city and it took us a little over an hour to get to our hotel. We drove through the country and then the modern part of the city. There were lots of modern skyscrapers and apartment building. The hotel we booked was called Villa Roma. It was three blocks from the beach on top of a slight hill. The inside was rustic with wooden floors and little artisan pieces of art all over. Our room was solid white, brown wood floors. It had a wooden shutter that closed the window. There was an air conditioner that worked ( thank god ) and a small TV. The bed was not very comfortable and only had one sheet on top ( that wasn't even gathered at the corners so it basically slid off while you slept. )

We were happy to be here. We went out the first night and walked along Barra beach. Toni bought us acaraje which is a specialty here. It was sold by a large black women in a traditional baian dress. It is a fried bread that is crispy brown. It is cut in half and green tomatoes, a yellow paste, shrimp and for the brave, red chilies are added. We both ate it on the side of the street with a beer. Schien beer is big here. We then went to dinner at Cabana da Cely. I ordered a cheese pastel to start and then had fried fish with french fries. We also had more beers. Next we went down the street to the Mercado bar for live music. A young man was playing guitar and singing Samba, Bosa Nova and Forro songs. Forro is a type of Northeast Brazil music that is sung with a repetitive rapid tempo. We both had Caipirinhas. When we got back to the hotel I wanted to go the pool in the courtyard outside our window but the water was a sickly green.

The next day we got up and had breakfast at the hotel restaurant. We had an assortment of breads and fruits. I had a rather large pimple on my back that was starting to bother me. I tried to pop it but only a little liquid came out. Today ( the 19th ) we took a taxi to historic old town Salvador. This is the most interesting part of Salvador with the colorful colonial buildings. There were still a lot of decorations for Carnival that was just last week. We started at Praca da Se. We visited the Memorial das baianas which is the large modern cross sitting on an angle. We walked up the street Rua Laranjeras and stopped into some tourist shops. There were lots of things to look at. Musical drums, wooden statues, shirts and the usual tourist things. Bahia ( which is this region of Brazil ) is know for these ceramic statues of black women in traditional Baian dresses. We spent the afternoon walking around. We saw the Igreja ( church ) of Sao Francisco but it was closed. We went into the Fundacao Casa de Jorge Amado who is a famous Brazilian writer. We had lunch at MamaBahia. Toni ordered moqueca which is fish served in a yellow stew. It was very tasty. We also had Caipirinhas. The restaurant was very pretty and set on a corner of one of the side streets. After lunch we walked back towards Praca da Se. A little boy tied strings to our wrists. The strings are not suppose to be bought but given. The person gets three wishes when it is tied with three knots. You can not take it off though and only get the three wishes when it falls off. It has been over a week and I am still wearing mine.

Back at Praca da Se we walked to Palacio Rio Branco but unfortunately it was closed for renovations. We took the Elevador Lacerda to the streets below. Historic Bahia is perched above the coast line. In 1873 a merchant, Antonio Francisco de Lacerda built this elevator. It is used by 30 thousand people daily. When we left the elevator there was the Modern Market. A large artisan market filled with everything you could want from Bahia. We bought shirts, a white lace table cloth. A pipe for Toni's mother whose smokes. On the second floor is a nice restaurant that looks out to the marina. Downstairs is a more basic cafeteria with boys performing Capoeira ( A mix of dancing and marcial arts ). We had a beer and then took a taxi back to the hotel.

When we got there Toni complained because the pool was still closed. They said it was still dirty from Carnival. Toni also said he heard the guy at the front desk offer the rooms at a significantly lower price then what we paid. That night at dinner we walked up the beach to Bahia evento. It was a large restaurant on the beach. We ordered wine and fried fish. That night was hard to sleep . The thing on my back was bothering me. The air conditioning worked too well... the room was cold and we only had a light sheet.

The next day ( the 20th ) we got up early and went down the beach and looked at hotels. We found a really nice modern hotel that faced the beach that was only 10 reais a night more then the Villa Roma. We went back, checked out, got our stuff and checked into Marazul. We were on the 6th floor with an ocean view. Toni called a friend of Jean Willis who said he would meet us at the beach. He said there was a gay area of the beach called Le boy that was located at the end of the beach. We went and got two chairs and a umbrella. The water is a lot different then Rio. It was a lot warmer. The beach hardly had any waves. The beach gets deep very rapidly so everyone is close together a few feet into the water. Andrea came and we spent the day talking to him and drinking beer. He also disappeared once to go smoke pot in the rocks. We don't smoke but I guess a lot of the gay guys there do.

That evening we went to the hotels pool ( yes, the pool water was a gorgeous blue at his hotel compared to the sickly green at the Villa Roma ). Afterwords we got pasta and seafood at the hotel restaurant. That night we had a slight problem with the air conditioner. It worked but the room was still a little too warm. It basically only came with an on and off switch so you could not choose the level. In the early morning we had them change our room

On our last day of Salvador ( the 20th ) we spent the day at the beach again. My blister was in fact an ingrown hair. Another one had sprouted up and the first was infected. It was getting pretty disgusting. Toni said all the sea f00d ( especially shrimp ) was making it worse. We went to the pharmacy and got some medicine for it. We had lunch at a local restaurant. Toni was homesick for steak so we had steak with rice and beans. In the evening we had dinner next door to our hotel. The place was called Pereira and is very chic. The inside was all sleek wood and glass. I ordered leg of duck with small fried potatoes. Toni got lamb with a potato puree. We also drank wine.

The next day the lady driver came and picked us up. We headed back to the airport for the next part of our trip.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

OH CARNIVAL ( part 2 )
























































On the fourth night of carnival we met up with Guilherme in the evening. He showed up in a taxi at our house with a new boyfriend from Sao Paolo. We went to a Italian place called Felice in Ipanema for dinner. Afterwords we went to a club called Posto 8 which was also in Ipanema. It was on the second floor and has windows that face the beach. It was a costume party but we did not know in advance. I was wearing my Beija-flor carnival shirt that I bought the night before. We stared drinking beers. They played a good mix of Samba with regular pop songs thrown in. Jean Wills and Rita Ribera both showed up with some of there friends. We drank till about 3am.

The next day we got up late. Toni arranged a Taxi to Mesquita. We loaded up our things ( and the dogs ) and took the hour trip there. It was in the afternoon and they were have a Churrasco at Penha's house. She has a small pool in the backyard this is about 4 feet high and six feet around. We drank and when it got too hot swam in the pool. In the evening we put on our costumes ( fantasias ) and walked to the town square. There was a band playing. There was two streets of tents for beer and food. Toni was batman and I was Zorro. Batman was very popular and Toni had to shake hands with a lot of kids and take pictures. Zorro was somewhat popular, We drank again. It was fun but more then a little hot. I had it easier then Batman since he has a rubber mask. At the end of the night we went back to Marcelo's to go to sleep. The next day we said goodbye to the dogs and took a bus back to Rio centro. Toni had to work so I started packing. We leave tomorrow for Salvador. The past week went so quickly it is hard to believe we are going on our trip already.

In Rio the city is cleaning up the Carnival mess. The Sambodomo is empty and will be used once next Sunday for the top schools to march one last time. The beaches are still crowded with tourists, but not so many. Today they announce the winning samba school. The city will then take a very short break and then begin planning for next years carnival. Oh carnival!

Monday, February 15, 2010

OH CARNIVAL!











Well it is carnival once again in Brasil. For five days the city is filled with Tourists and everybody parties. There are street parties ( bandas ) all over the city. The Samba schools are parading at the Sambadomo. The beaches are filled during the day.

My Carnival is a little more tame. We avoid the big bandas ...they are more for drunk tourists. Plus carnival is a busy time for Toni so he has had to work most of the days. Buyu was staying with us but after a few days he disappeared with his friends. Me and Toni went out Friday but got into a fight at the bar. It was over something really dumb ...a bit of miscommunication. Sometimes I get a little frustrated with things here...and sometimes Toni needs to learn when to leave things alone. We made up Saturday morning and things were better Saturday night. We went to Ipanema beach during the day but it was horrible. A banda was going on so there were too many people. The gay beach was so crowded you could not even make it to the water. We settled for a little space further away. The price for a umbrella or chair was like double what it is normaly so we settled for our beach towels. Amy Winehouse ( Not the real Amy ...but the brazilian version ) met us. I went to the water which was freezing code. I seriously think it is a current right from the Antarctica. The waves were really strong too. The people beside us were singing and really loud. I said we should just go to Copacabana and everyone agreed. We walked there through the banda. Helena called to have her make up done so Toni left us. I spent two hours with Amy who just complained the whole time. Amy is kind of skinny and a mess ( like the real Amy W ) so she is not lucky in love. Atlantic avenue was closed for Carnival so we watched everyone walking and drinking while we waited for Toni. When he came we went to the store quick and then home. Marcelo and Marco met us there and then we went to dinner with Helena. After we ate and I had two drinks we went to the Sambadomo. We did not have seats but you can see everyone getting ready and all the floats before they enter the stadium. I really want to march in the parade or at least gets seats but right now all my money is for our trip this week to Salvador. We drank and had street food. We then went home and watched the parade on TV.
The next day we went to the beach all day. The water was really cold again but at least the seats on the beach were better.
Tonight we are going to a party and tomorrow we are going to a Churrasco in Mesquita. Well we have to take the dogs to Marcelos so i guess we are making a day of the whole thing.